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New England Seabirds
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I flew into Dublin the first of June and spent three days in the city. All over the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland were posters advertising the Special Olympics World Championships. The Special Olympics are sponsored by the Robert Kennedy Foundation and this was the first time the World Championship has been held outside the U.S. The athletes stay with host families and the host families show their young guests the sites. Some American families stayed in the hostels. After Dublin, I rented a car and made a loop around the island ending in Belfast Northern Ireland after which I took a ferry boat to Liverpool, England. The interesting birding occurred on the Saltee Islands, Skellig Michael and on the North coast of Northern Ireland. I also report on a visit to Killibegs where I photographed the Irish Fishing Fleet in port. The Saltee Islands The Saltee Islands are located 20 minutes off the south western tip of the Republic of Ireland. The only tourist boat leaves from Kilmore Quay. There is a fine hostel in Rosslear Harbor. I did not have a phone number to call for reservations so I just showed up one morning in Kilmore Quay where I found a sign that said "Saltee Island Trip Wait Here Captain Declan Bates (053)29684 or (087)529736" Nobody had showed up by 10 AM so I found the Harbor Master and he called for me. Yes, the boat would go at 11 AM and so it did. It was a small boat with me and two birders from Cork. The short trip takes one half hour during which we saw Puffins, Gannets, Razorbills, Kittiwakes. Once on the island nobody seemed to know where to go so I ended up following the two birders from Cork across the island to a sea stack of Gannets. On the cliffs were Kittiwakes, Razorbills, Guillemots ( Common Murres), and Fulmars. Manx Shearwaters and Puffins also breed on the island which is covered with rabbit burrows. I trust the burrows were not shearwater homes because they did not smell. The two birders from Cork moved to the far end of the island to find Puffins, but I was afraid I would miss the boat back and worked my way back to the stairs. A sign tells you something more about the island.. It is owned by a private individual Michael Neale who called himself the Prince of Saltee. The family comes to the island frequently and stays in a house with no electricity or plumbing. Camping is allowed on the island and a few campers were there during my visit. I do not know how to make arrangements for camping. I had Ringed Plover and Rock Pipet on the beach and a few Manx Shearwaters on the way home. The Skelligs Skellig Michael The Skelligs are tiny islands off the east coast of Ireland. They are interesting because of the seabird colonies and for the ancient monastery on Skellig Michael. If you are traveling to Ireland with a non-birding spouse or other relative this may be a good stop. To reach the islands go to Portmagee which is on the scenic Ring of Kerry. One hint about driving the Ring of Kerry, the roads are very narrow and the large tourist buses make the trip in a counter clock-wise direction. I elected the clock-wise direction and had to yield to the oncoming buses because they take up more than half the road and yield to nobody. I was rather unimpressed with the Ring of Kerry. The Dingle Peninsula is much more scenic. Portmagee is a nice little town with a fine bakery for lunch and coffee. The other interesting thing was a public toilet with a sign proclaiming it 2002 Top Irish Toilet. The day before my trip to the island I toured the Skellig Experience across the bridge from Portmagee on Valentia Island. This is a good introduction to the archeology and natural history of the island. There is also a very good book you can buy at the center. The Skellig Story . I stayed in the hostel in Knightstown on Valentia Island which used to be apartments for the Irish Coast Guard. I went into Portmagee in the morning to take the Pat Joe Murphy boat to the Skelligs. There are several boats and you can take one from Knightstown within walking distance of the hostel. However Pat Joe Murphy gets to the island first. In the early days of Christianity it was popular for monks or holy men to isolate themselves in some remote location to pray and study. Ordinary people made pilgrimages to the monasteries to insure their entry into heaven. This early form of tourism was very profitable to the monks who charged the pilgrims for room and board and often received gifts. They accumulated wealth and became targets for the Vikings. Skellig Michael is the site of one of these ancient monasteries. The monastery is well preserved and protected by the park service. The island also has a history as a lighthouse . The seabird colonies are the main attraction for birders. The center has a big display and lists the following numbers for 1991. You cannot go to the island at night and have no chance to see Manx or British Storm-petrel.
Skellig Michael
The Monastery
Northern Ireland Crossing the border from the Republic of Ireland to Northern Ireland is very simple. I don't remember even stopping. You still drive on the left hand side of the road, the money changes to British pounds, and the roads improve somewhat. I stayed at the hostel in Bushmills. It is a very nice hostel where I had a five bed room to myself. The hostel has a lovely kitchen and there was a grocery store within walking distance. Another beautiful hostel is located right on the beach at Whitepark Bay but it was fully booked by a group from the U.S. At the end of my stay in Ireland (month of June) I went to Belfast and took a city tour which included the battling Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. Only in Belfast was there any sign of the "Troubles" as they are called and I felt very safe during my visit. It is probably best not to be in Belfast during July when "the marching season" causes tension between the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. The birding in Northern Ireland in June was not exceptional. If birds are your only interest you should probably spend your time elsewhere. If experiencing Europe is your objective then by all means include a trip to Northern Ireland. The Giant's Causeway The Giant's Causeway is a geologic formation of hexagonal basaltic columns exposed by erosion along the beach. The formation continues across the Irish Sea and I saw the other end on the Isle of Skye in Scotland. It is a beautiful and interesting spot. I parked outside to save 5£ and walked down and back. There is a bus from the parking lot that charges a minimal amount and saves you the long climb back. To the right of the formation known as the "Organ" is a small colony of Fulmars. I also saw Stonechat, Oystercatcher, Kittiwake, Gannets and Guillemots here. Carrick-A- Rede Bridge Another scenic feature you do not want to pass by is the man made bridge at Carrick-A-Rede or "Rock in the Road". There is a large sea mount separated from the mainland by a narrow channel. Salmon migrating along the coast mostly in July bump into this formation and find the channel too narrow so they detour around the sea mount. Since 1640 fishermen set their nets to catch the salmon and were able to catch some 300 fish a day during the month of July. Every year they built a swinging rope bridge across the gap to reach the sea mount. Of course today there are no Salmon and Irish Fisheries has closed down the fishing. The rope bridge is maintained only for tourists.
Rathlin Island Rathlin Island has a reputation as a good spot to bird during migration. My visit at the end of June was outside of any migration. The main summer birding on the island is at the west end lighthouse and Bird Observatory where there is a large seabird colony including Guillemots, Puffins, Fulmars, and Kittiwakes. Since you have probably already seen these birds elsewhere, Rathlin Island can be missed. To reach the island take the ferry from Ballycastle at 10 AM for 8.5£. It is slow ferry and I saw Guillemots, Razorbills, Gannets, Fulmar, and gulls on the trip. When you arrive on the island the problem is to get out to the lighthouse. The transportation concession is owned by Raghery Tours and Mr. Raghery only runs the shuttle when he has enough people to make it worth his while. He shows up at the dock to meet the ferry and decides if a trip is worth his time. You can walk, but the road is up and down hill almost all the way and takes about 2 hours. I got lucky. Raghery decided he had a profitable trip. He would only guarantee me a return seat at 12:30 or 1:30. I elected the 1:30 return which gave me about 2 hours at the observatory. I got to the dock at 2 PM for the 3 PM boat. I walked around the small town but didn't see many birds. The warden at the hostel in Bushmills used to live on Rathlin Island, but moved to the mainland when her boys entered school. She said Raghery Tours was a big problem because the owner does not see any reason why he should provide the service unless he wants to. One bird club brought their own van so that they could bird the island at will. I believe you can also arrange to stay overnight at the Bird Observatory. On the ride out I saw Pheasant, European Goldfinch, Skylark, Wheatear, and Chaffinch. All birds you can see almost anywhere.
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