| Wandering Birder| Europe 2003 | Ireland Page 3 | Page 4 /4 |
Ireland Northern Ireland
|
 I saw Fulmars in many places in Ireland and Scotland. .There seemed to be so many on the coast of Northern Ireland, I called it the Fulmar Coast. |
Northern Ireland
Crossing the border from the Republic of Ireland to Northern Ireland is very simple. I don't remember even stopping. You still drive on the left hand side of the road, the money changes to British pounds, and the roads improved somewhat.
I stayed at the hostel in Bushmills. It is a very nice hostel where I had a five bed room to myself. The hostel has a lovely kitchen and there was a grocery store within walking distance. Another beautiful hostel is located right on the beach at Whitepark Bay but it was fully booked by a group from the U.S.
At the end of my stay in Ireland (month of June) I went to Belfast and took a city tour which included the battling Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. Only in Belfast was there any sign of the "Troubles" as they are called and I felt very safe during my visit. It is probably best not to be in Belfast during July when "the marching season" causes tension between the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. The birding in Northern Ireland in June was not exceptional. If birds are your only interest you should probably spend your time elsewhere. If experiencing Europe is your objective then by all means include a trip to Northern Ireland.
The Giant's Causeway
The Giant's Causeway is a geologic formation of hexagonal basaltic columns exposed by erosion along the beach. The formation continues across the Irish Sea and I saw the other end on the Isle of Skye in Scotland. It is a beautiful and interesting spot. I parked outside to save 5£ and walked down and back. There is a bus from the parking lot that charges a minimal amount and saves you the long climb back. To the right of the formation known as the "Organ" is a small colony of Fulmars. I also saw Stonechat, Oystercatcher, Kittiwake, Gannets and Guillemots here.
Carrick-A- Rede Bridge
Another scenic feature you do not want to pass by is the man made bridge at Carrick-A-Rede or "Rock in the Road". There is a large sea mount separated from the mainland by a narrow channel. Salmon migrating along the coast mostly in July bump into this formation and find the channel too narrow so they detour around the sea mount. Since 1640 fishermen set their nets to catch the salmon and were able to catch some 300 fish a day during the month of July. Every year they built a swinging rope bridge across the gap to reach the sea mount. Of course today there are no Salmon and Irish Fisheries has closed down the fishing. The rope bridge is maintained only for tourists.
 |
I crossed the rope bridge and spent about an hour enjoying the view from the rock which included this pair of Fulmars guarding their nest. There are also Guillemots, Razorbills, and Kittiwakes nesting on the seamount. |
Rathlin Island
Rathlin Island has a reputation as a good spot to bird during migration. My visit at the end of June was outside of any migration. The main summer birding on the island is at the west end lighthouse and Bird Observatory where there is a large seabird colony including Guillemots, Puffins, Fulmars, and Kittiwakes. Since you have probably already seen these birds elsewhere, Rathlin Island can be missed.
To reach the island take the ferry from Ballycastle at 10 AM for 8.5£. It is slow ferry and I saw Guillemots, Razorbills, Gannets, Fulmar, and gulls on the trip. When you arrive on the island the problem is to get out to the lighthouse. The transportation concession is owned by Raghery Tours and Mr. Raghery only runs the shuttle when he has enough people to make it worth his while. You can walk, but the road is up and down hill almost all the way and takes about 2 hours. I got lucky. Raghery met the boat and decided he had a profitable trip. He would only guarantee me a return seat at 12:30 or 1:30. I elected the 1:30 return which gave me about 2 hours at the observatory. I got to the dock at 2 PM for the 3 PM boat. I walked around the small town but didn't see many birds. The warden at the hostel used to live on Rathlin Island, but moved to the mainland when her boys entered school. She said Raghery Tours was a big problem because the owner does not see any reason why he should provide the service unless he wants to. One bird club brought their own van so that they could bird the island at will. I believe you can also arrange to stay overnight at the Bird Observatory.
On the ride out I saw Pheasant, European Goldfinch, Skylark, Wheatear, and Chaffinch. All birds you can see almost anywhere.
 |
Much of Rathlin Island is surrounded by steep cliffs. This photographer is dangerously close to the edge since from where he is standing he cannot see where the drop off really is. Nor do I see why he would take such a risk. Just behind this view is a pass in the cliffs where the Kittiwakes streamed through on their way to drink from a fresh water pond. Gulls unlike true seabirds cannot drink seawater.
 |
The Bird Observatory at the lighthouse is open from 11 -3 PM and manned by volunteers. There is a long flight of stairs from the top of the cliff to the lighthouse platform where the volunteers have telescopes set up and give little talks about the birds. |
| This is the view of the bird cliffs from the lighthouse
platform. As you can see you are really not that close to the majority of the
Kittiwakes, Guillemots, Puffins, and Fulmars that nest here.
A large seabird colony such as this one can't fail to impress. They are busy and nosy. In desert conditions the amount of dropping builds up and can be a significant source of nitrogen for farmers. In moist climates such as Rathlin Island, the rain washes the guano into the sea thus fertilizing the waters near the colony. |
 |
 |
I was able to photograph this pair of the Fulmars nesting
close to the lighthouse platform. Notice the precarious position of the bird on
the right who is presumably on the nest. I was the only one interested in Fulmars. Others were of course looking for the most popular bird the Puffin. A few Puffins could be seen far below standing on the rocks. |
| Wandering Birder| Europe 2003 | Next Chapter |