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Galápagos Penguins
The first afternoon we sailed to the small island of Bartolome just north of Baltra. The skiff took us in two groups close to the island to see the Galápagos Penguin. There is an exclusive club of birders who have seen 17 penguin species and I want to join. The Galápagos Penguin is an endemic seabird that can only be seen in the vicinity of the islands. So with great anticipation, I got in the first skiff . We got very close to 3 birds standing on a rock. Unexpectedly two birds were up for a good show.
Galapagos Penguins
Galapagos Penguins copulating If the 17 penguin club is exclusive then the group of birders who have seen penguins actually mating is even more so. While we watched, the male sidled up to the female and stood right next to her. They exchanged some bill clicking for a few seconds and then the male mounted the female for about 3 minutes.

According to one reference, eggs are laid in September. This is the first week of August. Seems a little early.
Mating complete, the female composed herself while the male strutted off to the water.

I have seen many penguins, but this was a first for me. Unfortunately only half of the group was in the first boat and witnessed this amazing sight.
Galapagos Penguins
Galapagos Penguin Leaving the female on the right, the male walks off to the water. The whole thing was witness by a third penguin who also stood on the rock to the left.

The Galápagos Penguin is related to the Magellanic Penguin of southern Chile and to the similar Falkland Penguin. The disastrous 1982-83 El Niño caused the loss of 77 per cent of the population which is slowly recovering.
Almost immediately a second male (left) climbed up on the rock and approached the female. Too late buddy. Shove off.

Back on the Angelique we watched a great plunge diving show by the Blue-footed Boobies.
  Galapagos Penguins
Darwin's Finches
After seeing the penguins, we set sail over night for Playa Negra on the far side of Isabella. During the night we crossed the equator twice. Early the next morning we had the first two Waved Albatrosses,one very close to the boat. We also had many Brown Noddys and several of the severely declining Galápagos Dark-rumped Petrel.

The Mangrove Finch was our target bird of our first real beach landing . Darwin used the Galápagos finches to explain his theory of the evolution of the species. There are 13 species of finch found on the islands all of which supposedly descended from one species. They are the ultimate "little brown jobs". It takes an experienced birder to separate them in the field. We actually saw our first finches the Medium Ground-finch and the Small Ground-finch at the Baltra airport. The males are all dark and the females striped. The size of the bill is the main distinction, but we were soon to learn that there are small billed mediums and large billed mediums. Most species of finches are rather common and can be found in the city at places like the Darwin Station in the major city of Porto Aroyo. Some can only be found on one islands. It is probably not possible to see all thirteen species on one trip.
Sea Turtle tracks on Isabella These are the tracks left by a Green Sea Turtle on the way to laying her eggs in the sands of Isabella. At the top of the beach were several large craters where eggs had been laid. We did not see any sea turtles.

The Green Sea Turtle is the most abundant and only sea turtle that is not endangered. It is also the only sea turtle that comes ashore to bask in the sun. As clumsy as these guys are on land, in the sea they are good swimmers. . I once saw a sea turtle while I was snorkeling in the Virgin Islands and tried to swim above it. It was way too fast for me.
We searched for the Mangrove Finch by walking along the edge of the Mangroves at the back of the beach. The finch was finally located by our expert guides using a tape recording and a lot of patience. The Galápagos Mockingbird was easily seen poking around the mangroves. A Galápagos Hawk flew over the beach.
Marine Iguana
Marine Iguanas spit salt water and laze around in the sun usually on the rocks. The famous red crabs of the Galápagos are black when young. Pelicans, Oystercatchers, Galápagos Penguins and a Great Blue Heron were seen from the beach.
Red crabs on Galapagos
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